This was exactly what we hoped to see. Pam Sherwood and I were on a combination photo safari and plains game hunt in South Africa.

Pam wanted to see Africa and its amazing wildlife. I wanted to hunt for two elk-size antelope, nayla and kudu, and photograph the continent's amazing wildlife. Pam was extremely apprehensive about traveling abroad in the new era of terrorism - a hand held rocket attack closed commercial flights into Kenya as we planned our trip. Therefore, we selected South Africa because of its exceptional wildlife, superb national parks and its lack of terror attacks. South African Airways has direct flights from the U.S., avoiding European hubs.

Day one, in Addo Elephant National Park in South Africa soothed Pam's fears. The flight and transfers went flawlessly. Watching elephants Pam's apprehension melted away. We were in Africa, a herd of 25 to 30 elephants grazed in front of us. You could hear them sheering grass with their trunks and watch them poking tidbits into their mouths. We could smell them.

Combining a photo and hunting safari

Hunting and photo safaris are compatible and a great way to experience Africa. Pam wanted to see as much wildlife as possible and I was excited about hunting. She dug into information on photo safari companies while I researched hunting options.

We booked a 10-day photo and hunting safari with Tollie Safari Co. of South Africa. They offered a stay that included a visit to Addo Elephant National Park, Mountain Zebra National Park, a camp-out in a historic ox wagon and five days of hunting for nayla and kudu.

Safety and comfort were key issues in selecting Tollie Safari's. This was Pam's first trip to Africa and her first hunting experience. We wanted a family-run operation with a good track record offering both hunting and photo safaris. Accommodations were tastefully done in a wildlife and pioneer decor rivaling some of the nicest lodges in the U.S. Hunting was done on two massive family-owned ranches featuring mountains, deep canyons, small rivers and no game fencing.

A giraffe gracefully stretches its long neck to munch some foliage. Harry Morse photo

"We have excellent nyala and very good kudu. Which do you want to hunt first?" asked Tollie Jordaan, safari owner. "Or do you want to start with visits to national parks to take photos?"

We opted to visit the parks and get a feel for the wildlife and the country.

Addo Elephant Park becomes one of the biggest in Southern Africa

A wild dog suns itself. Harry Morse photo

Addo Elephant Park was a major stop on our photo safari. Tollie's cousin, Lucius Moolman, the park manager, explained the history of the park and what the new expansion means.


"We have expanded to encompass a complete mountain range. Once completed, Addo will be one of the largest parks in southern Africa running from the sea to the mountains," said Moolman "Reintroducing lions back into the park, along with rhinos brings us full circle. It is a proud day."

Lions are the big news. Two prides from Kruger and Kalahari national parks were introduced into Addo recently.

One of the new expansion areas includes an endangered wild dog captive breeding area. We visited the research station and viewed the wild dogs. Less than 3,000 wild dogs remain in the wild in Africa. The captive breeding program is set up to redistribute and reintroduce wild dogs back into huge national parks that offer safe haven.

Addo Elephant Park was added to South Africa's extensive national park system to protect elephants from regional extinction over 70 years ago. The herds have flourished.

Elephants have free roam, visitation is limited and guests staying overnight in the park must to be back to the compounds before the sun sets. Visitors can drive the dirt and gravel roads on their own or pay $10 for a ranger guided tour. Roads are set up to give visitors driving in the park a chance to see lots of elephants and other animals.

We stayed in a bungalow overlooking a water hole for $40 a night. If you want more seclusion and an exclusive wilderness adventure - "The Out of Africa" experience, Gorah Elephant Camp offers luxury-tented suites on raised platforms with private baths, gourmet meals and a view to kill for inside the park.

"We are one of the few parks in the world to have the big seven," said a ranger on an evening game drive. "The expansion takes the park from the ocean and it's big two, the Wright whale and white shark, to the mountains and plains with the big five - lions, rhinos, cape buffalo, leopard and elephant."

Ranger-led game drives are available twice a day. They offer a safe and informative alternative to driving around on your own. On an evening game drive we witnessed a car nearly getting crunched by a massive bull elephant. The driver accidentally hit the horn while trying to photo the bull. He didn't realize the bull was in musk and not in a good mood to be honked at.

At Addo, instead of killing excess cape buffalo as herds in the park grow beyond their food supply, rangers capture them and auction them off to game parks specializing in photo safaris.

Addo cape buffalo are disease-free and some of the most sought-after by photo safari ranches and parks. Complete family groups are captured and put up for auction. The income from the auction is used for capitol improvements in the park.

Once we had photos of elephants, rhinos, wild dogs and other game we went to Mountain Zebra National Park to photograph the endangered mountain zebra and returned to family ranches owned by Tollie Safari to hunt.

Hunting, dining and shopping

Nyala and kudu haunted my dreams.

These gorgeous antelope inhabit the rugged ranch country with kudu living in the mountains and nyala inhabiting the river bottoms.

Our professional hunter, Christi Flick, took Pam and me to a series of canyons laced with small streams and dense aloe vera groves. We asked to hunt on foot since both of us wanted to get a feel for the land.

Our first hike took us to a series of cliffs where aboriginal tribesmen hunted and painted pictures of the game they stalked. The faded red colors of an eland antelope painted hundreds of years earlier graced the rock formation.

We spotted a herd of eight kudu grazing a half-mile away using my Leica 20-by-60 spotting scope. Two mature males with black spiraling horns were feeding. Getting a shot meant a long hike around a mountain. Unfortunately, when the hike was done, the kudu had slipped away.

On our way back to the main ranch we turned a corner and 21 giraffes towered above the trees. The image was so spectacular, we were speechless. Out came the cameras.

Lady fine-tunes the safari experience

Karen Tollie made sure all the little details ladies enjoy were done exquisitely. Daily dinner menus had digital pictures of the clients adorning the cover. From linen to lotions, the small touches were cared for.

She gave Pam shopping tips. Shopping excursions were part of the safari package. Pam liked the carved giraffe bones, table clothes with elephants on them and hand carved masks. Roadside stands featured handmade items from painted and carved ostrich eggs to wild bee honey and bracelets.

George and Mary Beth Lloyd of Galveston, Texas, were also touring and hunting with Tollie.

"I loved the night's stay in the historic ox wagon," said Mary Beth. "They have remodeled the inside in luxury. The ox wagon over looks a waterfall and a vast expanse of Africa stretched out before us."

Dinners at the ranch were five to seven courses with a choice of meats or fish for those who didn't prefer wild game and a selection of superb South African wines. Pam liked the wild meats being served and judged zebra tenderloins the tastiest.

It was Mary Beth's first trip to Africa and she was enthralled with the experiences.

"We were hunting zebra when a mixed herd of wildebeest and zebras came running down the hill at us. It looked like a whole zoo," said Mary Beth.

Luck changes

Our luck changed over the next two days, and I took a mature nyala and kudu. It was the first time Pam had ever joined a hunt and witnessed a kill. Joining the hunt and experiencing failure and successes expanded Pam's understanding about hunting. She ate the meat of the game we took and met the ranch families that would eat the meat we left behind.

She saw how changing ranching practices benefited wild game for hunting and viewing. The Tollie family's values and love of wild game for its beauty and economic income gave her new understanding about hunting, ranching and conservation.

Great trips end too soon

Sharing the African experience from photographing elephants and rhinos to stalking nayla and kudu creates life-long memories. Tollie Safari put Pam at ease about hunting and visiting Africa.

Addo Elephant Park exceeded expectations: Excellent accommodations overlooking a water hole, elephants, cape buffalo, lions, wild dogs, rhinos and a park staff willing to share their love of wildlife.

Next time you seek an adventure don't rule out Africa. Combine a hunt, photo safari and adventure shopping.